Category: Vietnam

Leaving Hoi An on Boxing Day, I embarked on a southbound journey through two rainy days along the coast. On waking up on my birthday, a welcomed change in weather lifted my spirits. I was anxious about having no plans for my birthday as I wanted to celebrate it in some way, so found a homestay in Tuy Hoa for the night hoping to meet some people.

The town was touristy but only with Vietnamese people and surprisingly the beach was empty. I treated myself to a slap up meal of hot pot (costing £4), something I had wanted to try in south east Asia. Returning to the homestay to my delight I met Christian, and convinced him to join me for a birthday celebration in the town. I had a great evening enjoying some beers at a local bar and we got along great chatting into the night.

Continuing south on the 29th, I spent the night on a stony beach, watching the tide roll in. The peaceful night turned eventful as the tide came very close and waves splashed up over my tent intermittently. I knew it would be alright as high tide had passed but I still didn’t get much sleep. The next morning, the beach was full of locals foraging at low tide so I swiftly packed up and left for Nhà Trang.

Nhà Trang, a popular beach town, felt somewhat sterile, dominated by hotels and palm-fringed beaches like it could be anywhere in the world. After a brief stop, I headed west into the hills heading for city of Da Lat. There was one big climb from sea level to 1500m with the sun was beating down on the black asphalt road. The road was beautiful and as I climbed I was rewarded with great views and cooler temperatures. I found a great camp spot for the night right on the side of the mountain.

Heading into Da Lat for New Year’s Eve, I checked into a budget hostel offering a NYE BBQ. The hostel was packed full and had a great atmosphere. The night unfolded with a local concert and fireworks at a stage in the town center followed by visiting a few bars.

Da Lat was constructed as a French resort town in the mountains to get away from the heat but felt like any other Vietnamese city, impossible to walk around. The roads were full of motorbikes with no pavement anywhere and there was very little to see in the city.

I left Da Lat the following morning descending towards Ho Chi Minh City. Finding a camp spot seemed challenging amidst the roads lined with houses and tea plantations everywhere. Fortunately, an unfinished petrol station provided a suitable spot for my tent and I could finally tick off my goal of sleeping in an abandoned building.

The next day, I was feeling quite unmotivated so found a proper campsite costing £2 a night. Arriving early afternoon, I set my tent up next to the river and had a dip. Later, I met Lee and Dan, two British men on a motorbike adventure around south Vietnam. It was a very welcome surprise as I wasn’t expecting to meet anyone at this remote campsite. I help drink their beers and joined them for the evening around a fire.

I took a detour off the road to Ho Chi Minh to cycle around Hoi Tri An Lake. This route unexpectedly became single track used by the locals on motorbikes, but was fantastic fun to cycle. Navigating along these tiny tracks, I startled some cows being walked by a man, causing them to bolt over a fence into some woods. Unsure what to do, I froze which lead to him shouting at me and gesturing for me to go. Slowly moving away the final cow bolted. I felt bad but wasn’t really sure what I could’ve done.

Approaching Ho Chi Minh city wasn’t a joyous ride, with busy main roads dominating from 50km out. In the city, chaos and skyscrapers mirrored Hanoi, but with more intensity. I spent a day going round the city visiting the sights and the war museum. This was a display of vivid, graphic images along with American tanks and aircraft.

Once the sun set, the city became beautifully lit and had a vibrant night. The hostel was full of other solo travellers and I had a great time out with them. Bars were competing with incredibly loud music and people out front trying to lure us into each one. Also, the staff would also perform land grabs, extending their seating into the road before swiftly rearranging it when the police intervened.

Before leaving Vietnam, I visited the Cu Chi Tunnels. These are old Viet Cong tunnels from the war and formed their base about 60km outside of the city. Crawling through the narrow passageways was an experience in the 40 degree heat. The tunnels had been widened for the tourists but were still a squeeze to fit through and I couldn’t imagine spending a long time underground or even worse fighting in them.

This blog post has taken me a while to write partly because I’ve been grappling with my impressions of Vietnam and partly because everytime I’ve sat down to edit it, I’ve been distracted chatting with people.

Travelling through the country, there were notable challenges, particularly with navigating the chaotic roads and finding suitable camping spots. Fortunately, I managed to avoid having any incidents on the roads and eventually always found somewhere to camp. Vietnam stands out as the cheapest country for food, although prices tend to escalate noticeably in touristy areas. The people, while generally friendly, displayed an assertiveness in shops, often pushing for sales, and I often encountered groups of teenagers on scooters following me and filming—a slightly uncomfortable experience.

The northern and southern regions presented distinct atmospheres. The north, reminiscent of Laos, felt more rural, while the south showcased a more developed and tourist-oriented environment, complete with supermarkets, bakeries, and great coffee shops offering Espressos for 50p.

Vietnam wasn’t a particularly relaxing country to cycle through and feel that maybe bicycle isn’t the best way to travel it with long streaches on main roads. I didn’t realised before quite how big the country really is and towards the end I was just wanting to move onto the next country. Now since leaving, I look back fondly on my time there. I spent 40 days in the country, which is by far the longest I’ve spent in one country on this trip and feel it is the first country I have visited which I have truly completed.

The plan was to reach Hoi An by Christmas Eve, covering a challenging 1000km in just 8 days. Before leaving Hanoi, I fueled up on the hostel’s buffet breakfast and enjoyed many cups of coffee helping me to focus through the chaos of leaving Hanoi.

The initial three days were spent on the flat riding with a favorable tailwind where I’d hoped to cover substantial ground before venturing into the hills. Ninh Binh welcomed me with its incredible terrain, a captivating landscape of paddies and limestone formations. The area is also littered with huge churches, built by the French in the 19th and 20th Century which are still well maintained. Exiting the World Heritage site, I rejoined the main road and found a peaceful spot in nearby woods to camp for the night.

Day two saw me spending most of my time on a main dual carriageway, an efficient but somewhat monotonous route. The journey took an unexpected turn when I met Marc, a Swiss cyclist heading in the same direction. We rode together for most of the day before parting ways in the afternoon. I headed for the coast to find a quiet beach to spend the night, discovering a deserted haven all to myself.

The tranquility of the beach was disrupted by nightfall rain, leaving all my stuff covered in wet sand. The rain persisted through the day, prompting a kind lady on a motorbike to gift me a poncho. She looked like she instantly regretted it, when riding off without anything to protect herself from the rain. Covered in a layer of dirt from all the spray off the road, I opted for a hotel that night, relishing the luxury of a shower and somewhere to dry all my gear.

The rain started around 9am the next morning, continuing through the whole day. I found shelter in Paradise Cave, the world’s longest cave adorned with impressive stalagmites and stalactites. The cave had the feel of a cathedral with its echoes, lighting and whispering visitors.

Venturing into the hills along the Ho Chi Minh trail, I discovered untouched landscapes and a fantastic mountain road. That night I found relief under a bridge, a lucky find of a great camp spot next to a stream.

I awoke with a cold the next morning which slowly became worse over the next few days and coupled with more rain, I wasn’t feeling at my best. The jungle and thick clouds provided a stunning backdrop to ride through and the road was almost empty as the route wasn’t the direct way to get anywhere. This resulted in a scarcity of shops, most containing very little stock. One such shop was run by a very young vendor who seemed quite surprised I was buying eggs. I understood why this was later when I cracked into the fetal duck eggs I’d purchased.

One benefit to the rain was the obundance of impressive waterfalls just on the side of the road. I also finally justified carrying a big coat, hat and gloves needing to put them all on at one point as I became very cold after descending one of the hills. I soon warmed up again on the next hill. Once I’d reached the top and descended down out of the cloud, the weather dramatically changed to warm sunshine. This was a welcome surprise as I rode back toward the coast.

Arriving in the Ancient capital city of Hue, the drizzly weather didn’t deter me from seeing the old walled city briefly. As I left, I visited an abandoned water park which I had been told excitedly about by a motorbiker. I had a great time exploring this strange place trying to imagine what it was like before it closed.

The final day saw me conquering the Hai Van Pass, a breathtaking stretch of coastal road and mountain pass, before a few hours of riding through Da Nang led me to Hoi An.

Christmas Eve was spent enjoying the beauty of the town lit up by lanterns everywhere possible.

Christmas Day did not unfold as planned. The envisioned day in the sun on a beach never happened. Partly due to the weather and party due to the nearest beach being 5km away. I definitely didn’t feel very Christmasy and did miss a good Christmas feast but still had a good day relaxing at the hostel in great company.

Leaving the small town of Cao Bang, my journey towards the coast would take me through winding roads and hidden gems. The hostel, more of a motorbike rental shop with attached rooms, was quiet with me getting an entire dorm to myself, reminiscent of my stay in Ha Giang.

The road to Thac Bang Gioc waterfalls took me past Angel Eye Mountain, offering a mesmerising viewpoint of a mountain with a hole in it. I wasn’t expecting much from it, just a quick detour off the route but it was inspiring and the photos taken in the drizzle don’t quite do it justice.

The route to the waterfall was a picturesque journey along quiet roads, leading to the impressive falls on the Chinese border. These are the 4th largest waterfalls on a international border and apparently even better in the rainy season.

Staying close to the China border, I encountered more serene roads winding around the hills that even traversed through a cave at one point.

With the coastal allure beckoning, I embarked on two big days riding mostly on the flat helped by a good draft behind one motorbike. On the 2nd day, it was a bit of a race to catch the final ferry to Cat Ba Island but I still managed to find time to share some beers with the locals.

At the ferry port, a chance encounter added charm to the journey as I met a cycling couple exploring Vietnam on folding bikes. The ferry ride itself proved to be a spectacle, weaving through the mesmerising islands of Ha Long Bay. The sheer number of islands was staggering, with almost all of them having no trace of humans ever stepping foot on them. This left me yearning for a kayak to explore this wilderness in.

Cat Ba Island, the largest of the islands in Ha Long Bay was mostly covered in lush forests, providing a perfect camping spot for that evening. The following day I took very easy, exploring the island and relaxing at the beach. I delved into a cave with a wartime hospital built into it, enjoyed a coffee while planning the next leg of my journey, and cycled it’s amazing costal road before spending another night camped on the island.

Despite its beauty, the island had its quirks, with many unfinished holiday resort building skeletons, reminiscent of those I sighted on Albania’s coast. It was also quite an expensive place, I think just because some shop keepers knew they could charge tourists more. This was confirmed to me when I was able to haggle down the cost of a packet of crisps. I took the direct ferry off the island, then a 130km ride led me to a hostel in Hanoi. This wasn’t a very scenic ride, mostly on duel carriageways but the bustling traffic made the time pass quickly as it forced me to stay attentive.

Taking a stroll through Hanoi, it took around three hours to see the sights. There wasn’t much to do in the city except enjoy the food and nightlife, with it being more of a hub from which travellers explore the north of the country from. The hostel I stayed at was over 7 floors with a nice rooftop terrace and an excellent free breakfast. I also treated myself to a few early Christmas presents, indulging in a new helmet, bike saddle, and headphones.

I had planned earlier this month to spend Christmas in Hanoi, but after making good progress through the north, now the goal is to reach Hoi An for Christmas. This may be too ambitious however, as I’ll need to average 130km a day for the next 8 days to make it. The challenge ahead excites me, as I’m not sure if it’ll be possible but the thought of spending Christmas on the beach will help spur me on.

Crossing the Laos-Vietnam border proved surprisingly smooth, and I was soon peddling towards Dien Bien Phu, a city etched with the scars of the First Indochina War. The A1 hill and its battlegrounds, alongside the monumental relics, offered a poignant glimpse into the historic conflict that led to France relinquishing its hold on Indochina. It was fascinating to be able to explore the scene of the battle, walking through the tunnels and trenches that cut into the hill.

I enjoyed a large lunch at an all you can eat restaurant, which I’d later go on to regret waking up that night with bad stomach cramps.

The following day became quite a struggle, as persistent stomach pain resulted in me not eating enough. After cycling through some beautiful landscapes, but not taking much of it in that afternoon I crashed in a hotel room allowed me a much-needed reprieve.

The following morning I was feeling better and continued north enjoying my first bowl of pho, despite some uncertainty about its contents.

Venturing over the O Qui Ho pass, famed as one of Southeast Asia’s most spectacular roads, I found myself enveloped in clouds, missing out on the promised scenic rewards. I passed through the town of Sa Pa not stopping as I just wanted to get out of the fog. The town has a cable car which takes you up to the highest peak in South East Asia something I’d considered doing however, dismissed the idea, reluctant to pay for a trip through the mist. The descent on the other side of the pass was a nerve-wracking ordeal. I had to remove my glasses as they would get covered in water droplets through the cloud and with the thick fog I had very little vision.

Emerging from the clouds was quite a relief, a perfectly paved toll road (which I dodged the barriers of) offered chance to enjoy the downhill stretch. Lao Cai greeted me and after a lunch stop, I searched for some much needed new brake pads. I managed to find a proper bike shop, not just somewhere selling kids bikes for the first time since Chiang Mai and secured two pairs remarkably costing less than £2.

The next couple days we’re spent cycling through farmland and small towns towards Ha Giang. This made finding somewhere to sleep quite a challenge, and each time I asked if I could camp on farmland I was refused. I think this may have been due to me communicating poorly as camping isn’t common in Vietnam. Each night I’d eventually find a spot, often in cutouts in the rock from which the roads had been built or one time on a football pitch. Furthermore, now I’m into December the days are noticeably shorter with it becoming dark at 17:30 reducing the amount of time I have to find somewhere.

I found a hostel in Ha Giang for £2 a night including breakfast and ended up having the entire dorm room to myself. There wasn’t much to explore in the town as it’s on the backpacking map for being the starting point for the infamous motorbike loop around the most northern part of Vietnam.

Embarking on the Ha Giang loop, I faced more mountain passes in the clouds on the first day however, I still could enjoy some spectacular views once out of the fog. Now into the mountains there were far more options for camping, and I spent the night in a quite forest clearing.

Finally, the cloud cover disappeared the next day revealing amazing landscapes of the valleys full of rice fields and tea plantations. After 6 grey days, I was beginning to really struggle and wonder how I ever made it through 22 British winters. The roads was incredible too, weaving up the valleys and cutting along the mountain sides. Despite the challenging cycling, I was loving it.

I found another good camp spot amidst the jungle and had a big climb the next morning up an inspiring mountain pass. The shape of the mountains rising up from the valley were so different to anything I’ve seen before.

At the top I was greeted to one of the best views I’ve ever seen. It was a huge panorama and looking down at how the river cut through the rock was mesmerizing. It was also one of the few places I’ve been where I could truly feel how high up I was, maybe because of the huge drop off the edge or the sight of the tiny boats on the river.

What followed was a fantastic descent navigating a thrilling road with a huge drop off the edge. I stopped on the way down to chat to Mark, an American cyclist going the other way. We chatted about how we felt we truly earnt the view and shared a laugh about the swarms of tourists on motorbikes being driven around the loop by locals. I then continued down the road leaving the loop and heading east following a river past some impressive dams.

The next two days were spent heading for Cao Bang on more mountain roads enjoying the sights of untouched landscapes and captivating sunsets.

I’ve had a great start to my journey through Vietnam. The roads have taken some getting used to and have felt the most unsafe of anywhere so far. The city traffic is chaeos with motorbike drivers always pulling out and turning in front of me, making me swerve or brake. Then the vans in the mountains will be driving far too quick round the winding roads sounding their horn into the bends, taking up the entire road and expecting me to get out their way.

I’ve really enjoyed the food and the great Vietnamese snack offerings. From very cheap packets of crisps usually prawn flavour to deep-fried bread and Mung bean pastrys: a scone like snack full of a marzipan textured filling.

Now, my journey continues east through the northern landscapes, as I pedal toward the enticing coastline. Then, after 2 months of traveling north east, I’ll actually be heading towards Australia again.