Thailand – Will Scam

South Thailand

I was excited to cross back into Thailand, where I made good progress along the well-built roads. I took a brief stop at the narrowest point in the country, although it seemed more symbolic than an actual tourist attraction and the only thing of interest was the sign. My dream was to sleep on a wild beach that night, and after spotting a small track that lead to the coast I found the perfect spot offering an amazing sunset.

It took me two more days to reach Bangkok, where I spent nights at temples in the kind hospitality of the monks. Navigating through the intense traffic in the city was quite a challenge, but I eventually made it to my hostel.

I took a day to explore the city, having a very quiet morning as nothing opened until midday. Walking the infamous Koah San Road, it was a completely different place during the day and night with the day comprising of stalls selling touristy items and at night it was another road of bars extending into the street selling buckets of alcohol.

Deciding on my next destination, I had the choice of riding along the east or west coast. I opted for the more touristy east coast over the quieter west coast, aiming for Chumphon, where I planned to catch a ferry to Koh Tao. Just outside Bangkok, I met Daniel, a fellow cyclist with no set destination, and we spent most of the day riding together. I wanted to make it 130km to a beach for the night, but I think this might’ve broken Daniel in the process, as with 20km to go he stopped.

The next day, I encountered my second puncture of the trip but quickly fixed it and continued along some excellent cycle paths. Clearly all the other cycle tourists had also found this route as I encountered nine different bikepackers that day, including a family of 4. I spent the night camping on another amazing secluded beach, having fun riding along the wet sand.

The following day, I attempted a 200km ride to Chumphon, to take the night ferry to Koh Tao. However, my plan was disrupted by heavy rain, which I didn’t want to ride through and I had to settle for sleeping at a police station, something I’d wanted to try in Thailand. The police were very hospitable providing me with an evening meal despite me insisting I had food and then packed me off the next morning with a huge bag of coffee sachets and some Nam Thom, a local energy drink.

The following day in Chumphon after booking the night ferry, I had to occupy myself for an afternoon in which I spent a few hours sheltered in a 7 eleven from the rain before heading down to a very quiet beach.

The night ferry was a great atmosphere with a few of the other Backpackers on board having the same idea as me, stocking up on some beers for the journey. Sitting on the top of the ferry enjoying beers was a great way to spend the evening, watching as the boat steered out of the harbour into the sea.

Arriving in Koh Tao just before sunrise was fantastic as we could watch the sun come up over the island as the ferry docked. I spent my first day on a snorkeling tour, visiting different bays around the island by boat seeing some beautiful fish and a huge turtle. That even was spent visiting some of the beach bars which had a great atmosphere.

The next day was a relaxing one, spent mostly at the hostel trying to get some admin done sheltering from some torrential rain.

Then for my final day on the island, I explored the other side, encountering steep roads and beautiful beaches, including Tanote Bay Beach, a busy but nice beach with a huge cliff jump which I felt I must do.

After three days on the island, I looked forward to being back on my bike. The island was beautiful and I can see why people learn to scuber dive there, but it didn’t have much character to it. It was also full of Brits most of who were there on a drinking holiday. This was fun to join in with but after a few nights I was ready to leave.

Leaving the island, I took another night ferry to the south and crossed to the west. At the west coast beaches, I noticed tsunami warning signs saying to head inland at the feel of a earthquake, a reminder of the devastating impact of the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami killing 5000 people in Thailand alone.

In Southern Thailand, I’ve been asked more than ever where I’m going and I’m never really sure how to answer. I don’t know if they want the next town, the next big city or my final destination, so I normally just say Australia and get a bit of a confused look back.

For my final two nights, I stayed at temples. Nearing the Malaysian border, there were fewer temples with the majority of people being Muslim. It felt like the few temples often got cyclists visiting and quickly gave me a place to camp. For my final night, I was greeted by some Thai military at the temple who kindly shared their meal with me and enjoyed watching as I tried to eat their spicy food.

Travelling through Thailand has been very easy. The foods been great with my favorite being the noodle soups, everyone’s been friendly and finding places to sleep was easy. I think though it’s lacking the chaos and excitement of Laos or Vietnam but I’ve definitely enjoyed my time in the country.

North East Thailand

My next destination was the northern border of Thailand, where I spotted a promising road on the map within the Doi Pha Hom Pok national park, winding through the mountains and leading up to the second highest peak in Thailand, Doi Lang. A potential obstacle, however, was this road was right on the Myanmar border, so I was unsure if I’d be able to ride along it. Despite this uncertainty, I decided to just go for it and find out when I arrived at the checkpoint for the entrance to the national park. But first, I spent a day cycling along the flat to make it to the national park.

The arduous ascent to this checkpoint was the toughest climb in Thailand so far. Wrestling with a super steep road reaching up to 35%, compounded by the sweltering 40-degree heat, I found myself struggling and having push my bike up several sections. When I reached the checkpoint, I was denied passage by the stern army personnel, seemingly almost offended that I’d ask to pass. I still managed to get some great views from where I made it to and descended down via an alternate route.

That night I sought shelter at a temple, where a kind-hearted monk directed me to a place to stay and generously provided a substantial bag of provisions.

Among the offerings were several packets of instant noodles, far better than the Russian ones I had encountered in Central Asia, likely owing to the generous amount of MSG in them. There was also a sizable box of Euro Cake, a processed confection comprising sponge cake with a layer of jam inside. I’d been craving good cake since leaving Europe however, these treats failed to hit the mark.

The following day, I set my course for Chiang Rai along a splendid road tracing the course of the Kok River. This journey was the first time I left the tarmac in Thailand and featured a challenging river crossing. Fortunately, the current was not too fierce, but with the high river level I had to carry my bike on my shoulder to prevent my bags from getting wet.

Upon arrival in Chiang Rai, I checked into a splendid hostel reminiscent of a Victorian seaside hotel, complete with a complimentary breakfast that I definitely made the most of. I promptly sought out a bike shop to fix an issue with my front gears, which had been non-functional for the past few days. The bike shop, more of a bike supermarket, proved to be a treasure trove of parts, and I got them to also replaced my chain and rear cassette which were both worn out. I always have some trepidation at the bike shops as I’ll never be coming back, so there isn’t anything I can do if they perform a bad repair. So it was reassuring when a £10,000 bike gets brought in as it shows the bike shop must be trustworthy.

My stay in Chiang Rai extended for two nights, affording me the chance to explore the city, meander through the bustling night market, and attend to some admin, including securing my visa for Laos, the first visa I’ve needed so far.

Embarking on a journey northward, I ascended a mountain to savor a breathtaking view of Myanmar before descending and making my way to the Golden Triangle and catching my first sight of the Mekong river.

After receiving my visa approval letter by email, I needed to find somewhere to print it off. After enquiring at a guest house they sent me to a printing shop right by the border, a business clearly set up for this task. This provided a good way to disposal of my remaining Thai coins and I then cycled towards the border.

Mae Hong Son Loop

The Mae Hong Son Loop is a renowned motorbike route traversing the northwest of Thailand mostly in the Mae Hong Son province. It’s stunning landscapes and scenic allure drew me in and enticed me want to ride it.

Leaving Chiang Mai that morning was a relif, as I relished the sensation of escaping the bustling city. Entering the mountains once more, I passed several elephant sanctuaries and was always amazed by these animals. Also along the route, water buffalo grazed peacefully. They always looked angry however, so I’d pass them cautiously but they never paid any attention to me.

My journey took me to Doi Inthanon National Park, home to Thailand’s highest peak. Eager to conquer the summit, I undertook the challenging climb, though the descent presented an unexpected hurdle—a steep fine of around £20 for cyclists. This was apparently due to local riders cycling bicycles without even a chain down the hill recklessly, resulting in numerous accidents. When I inquired how I was supposed to get down, the guard at the base chuckled and told me to just ride slowly.

After a strenuous 2-hour ascent, my efforts were met with a disappointing lack of a view at the cloud-covered summit. However, the descent provided a stunning panorama once I emerged from the mist. Unsure how slow I was supposed to go, I cautiously maneuvered past the spots where I’d noticed guards were stationed on the way up and avoided any unwanted encounters.

That evening, I settled at a picnic area equipped with a swimming pool, opting to camp in a shelter for protection from the rain. However, my refuge was not without its drawbacks. I found myself under siege from a relentless army of ants that had infiltrated my tent through holes in the bottom, waking me repeatedly as they crawled over me and bit me.

The poor sleep, huge climbs and probably not eating enough left me feeling pretty exhausted the next morning, a bad start to another big day full of climbs. Pushing on, I eventually crossed into the Mae Hong Son province and reached the town of the same name.

Early afternoon I decided to find somewhere nice to camp so I could have a relaxing evening. I ventured 4km off the loop to a lake which had camping, only to find it under renovation and closed. This was quite frustrating having to do an extra 8km with no purpose. Next, I saw a sign at the side of the road for camping in what felt like just someone’s garden. The man wanted 300 Baht for one night, twice what I paid for a hostel in Chiang Mai. Attempting to negotiate a better price proved fruitles, leading me to settle by a secluded waterfall for the night. This was a beautiful spot where I could enjoy a wash in the waterfall and very quiet, only seeing one other person the whole evening. I set about patching the holes in my tent but to no success, with the ants still found a way in that night.

Continuing my journey, I reached the Su Tong Pae bamboo bridge. This was built in 2012 to connect the village with the temple each on opposite sides of the river and was an amazing sight. The route I had planned went over the bridge, but after getting a stern look from a monk when I arrived and seeing all the stairs on the far side I decided against crossing it with my bike. I therefore just walked around admiring this structure for a while before continuing.

That afternoon, I pedaled up a significant hill toward the Myanmar border, arriving in the surreal atmosphere of Ban Rak Thai village. This town felt very up market filled with beautiful holiday villas. Whilst venturing into the surrounding hills, I encountered four Myanmar men who kindly let me camp outside their residence that night. They were very friendly and keen to tell me about the ongoing civil unrest in their home country which they’d escaped and were now working as builders in Thailand.

Battling through relentless rain the following day, I sought refuge a few times in restaurants and cafes using it as an excuse to stop and eat. I also encountered my first other bikepackers in the country, a group of Thai men heading in the opposite direction.

I now had one more big hill between me and Pai. I hoped to get as much of it done as I could that evening to give myself an easy ride into the town the following morning. By 6pm it was getting dark and I couldn’t find anywhere good to camp, so ended up just on the side of the road slightly hidden under an abandoned hut. I didn’t sleep well that night due to the sound of trucks and motorbikes often waking me combined with the anxiety from being clearly visible from the road. Fortunately, I did managed to get up most of the climb complete so had an easy ride into Pai the next day.

Pai was an interesting place, definitely not what I expected. It didn’t feel like I was in Thailand, but definitely had it’s own vibe of being the quintessential hippy town. The place seemed to only cater for backpackers with almost every shop being tattoo parlours, bars or indy cafes and often being a combination of two these.

I checked into a hostel run by a French man and this was clearly the place the French speaking expats hang out as there were about 5 older men sitting round the bar smoking weed and drinking beer when I arrived at midday. They were very entertaining and it was fascinating to hear how they’d ended up living here. From about 5pm it started raining and continued the entire night, making me very relived I had a roof over my head.

The following day was again plagued by more rain however, the road was one of the best cycling roads I’d ever been on. After a long climb to start the day, the rest was spent going down a fantastic mountain road with some spectacular corners. So far, most of the descents have been very steep making them hard to enjoy but the low gradients of this one were brilliant.

After picking up some food from a market, I stopped at a temple to camp wanting some shelter from the forecast storm coming that night. I was greated by friendly monk, who spoke very good English as he was a pupil at a temple in Runcorn for two years. He didn’t seem too impressed by the north of England however, complaining that it was too cold!

Deciding against a return to Chiang Mai, my next leg involves an eastward journey through more national parks toward Chiang Rai. The loop proved to be more demanding than anticipated, with a multitude of steep hills presenting quite the challenge for my heavily loaded bike. Nevertheless, the breathtaking vistas along the way and feeling of being back in the wild when pedaling through the jungle make it an unforgettable experience.

Bangkok to Chaing Mai

Upon arriving in Bangkok, my immediate plan was to escape the bustling city and locate a suitable spot for camping. Having spent a few days in Almaty and endured a full day of travel, I was eager to get back on the bike and get moving.

Navigating through the city chaos proved to be quite a task, especially when met with the staggering 35-degree heat and an overwhelming level of humidity. The air felt thicker and I was probably imagining it but more challenging to cycle through.

Plotting my route from Bangkok to Chiang Mai posed a new challenge. Unlike the sparsely connected towns of Central Asia, Thailand’s abundant routes left me with an array of options. To ensure quiet roads and breathtaking views, I decided to connect the dots between various national parks along the way.

Each evening, I sought refuge in temples, where I encountered varying degrees of hospitality. Some monks simply guided me to a quiet corner, while others engaged in conversation and generously provided me with food. The temples, although exquisitely beautiful, quickly became mundane and once I’d seen a few grand ones felt I had seen them all.

The fourth day brought me into the mountains and I wasn’t prepared for how tough the Thailand climbs would be. On my Garmin I’d be told an average gradient of 7%, yet half the ascents would exceeded 12%, and the other half would be short steep downhill sections. The scorching sun and relentless humidity made the task even more arduous, with the temperatures often around 40 degrees.

Amidst these challenges, sourcing drinkable water became another significant hurdle. The tap water, wasn’t drinkable anywhere and often yellow, resulting in frequently using my filter. Thankfully, most restaurants provided access to a water cooler, so I’d try to drink as much as possible during my lunch breaks. I’d stop most days to eat at a restaurant as the Thai cuisine has been great. For £1 I could get a meal, the highlights being noodle soup, fried rice and pad thai.

Sampling a variety of tropical fruits became a regular indulgence and I’d always buy anything I didn’t recognise. One challenge however has been finding snacking foods, as there is no biscuits or cakes. This has prompted me to resort to having lots of fizzy drinks to get some sugar.

Given the lack of oats or bread avaliable, my breakfast routine has revolved around cooking rice each morning. In the evenings, I often resort to purchasing a bag of curry from the local markets, which I pair with yet more rice. Consequently, I’ve been consuming a kilo of rice every two days, something that’s been surprisingly hard to source. This is due to most markets predominantly stocking 10 or 20kg large bags.

The locals have all been very nice, but not as curious as in Central Asia. A likely consequence of Thailand’s touristy nature. Despite encountering good English speakers in the cities, it was far rarer in other regions. One memorable encounter involved meeting Ying, a friendly local whose mother ran a restaurant. She showed me around their splendid tropical garden and even offered me a position on their farm!

After six days, I finally was able to wild camp, nestled within the rainforest of a serene national park. However, an unexpected downpour left most of my sleeping gear damp and an army of ants added to the problems. Fortunately, I’d planned to stay in a hostel the following day in Chiang Mai so was able to dry everything off.

My time in Chiang Mai felt like going to an activity park. The city was teeming with advertisements for various day excursions, including elephant visits, rafting trips, and Thai cooking schools. A quickly walked around the city which led me to Decathlon, where I managed to purchase much-needed new cycling shorts after mine were becoming quite see through. The remainder of the afternoon was spent unwinding at the hostel, followed by a pleasant evening at a local bar with the hostel staff.

Next I’m heading into the mountains in the north West of Thailand through Mae Hong Son provance. This was a popular motorbike loop and I look forward to the cycling adventure through it.