I had always intended to briefly cross through Bosnia and Herzegovina, covering just 10 km, to reach the southern part of Croatia. However, after conversing with fellow cycle tourists, I was convinced to embark on a more extensive detour, exploring the countryside and even the city of Mostar. This decision offered the added benefits of potentially cooler weather away from the coast and the avoidance of the busy main road south of Split.
Crossing into the country marked my first passport check since my arrival in France, and the border crossing went exceptionally smoothly. I was greeted by a vast lake that enticed me to take a refreshing swim.
My route led me through the captivating Blidinje Nature Park. Following a climb to 1247 meters, I found myself on an expansive, sparsely populated plateau. The cycling experience through this wilderness, aided by a favorable tailwind, was very enjoyable.
The subsequent descent from this altitude was exhilarating, as I followed an impeccably maintained road that meandered through the valley. I located a suitable camping spot along this route for the night.
The following morning marked the onset of rain. The rain had begun during the night and I decided to bravely pedal through it during the morning hours.
I joined the valley road that traced the course of the Neretva River. This road would eventually lead me back to Croatia. However, my first stop was Mostar, a city renowned for its touristy old town and iconic bridge.
Due to the relentless rain, my time in Mostar was brief and I didn’t spend long wondering around the old stone buildings.
Pressing on, I continued to follow the Neretva River back into Croatia, reaching the town of Metkovic. I had been to this town previously in 2018 for a kayak race, but never had the chance to explore this region having spent most of the time by the river or in the hotel. Unlike my previous memory of the bustling town where athletes from all over Europe had come to compete, it now felt surprisingly tranquil, with a lack of activity.
Heading south, I crossed into Bosnia and Herzegovina for 10km before reentering Croatia. I had hoped to cross the huge Pelješac Bridge which was only finished last year however, I discovered it was a motorway so unfortunately couldn’t and had to follow the old road which was now deserted. That night I found a picturesque spot to setup camp on a quiet mountain road.
The following day was devoted to reaching Dubrovnik, a place that had long captured my curiosity. However, I couldn’t help but feel somewhat out of place as I wheeled my bike through the historic old town, clad in my dirtied cycling attire, attempting to navigate through the masses of tourists.
As I departed Dubrovnik, the rain begin again. After enduring about an hour of rain while waiting outside Lidl with lots of shoppers also sheltering from the downpour, I became bored and resolved to forge ahead and aimed for the Montenegro border. Arriving at the border, there was a long line of cars which I just cycled around before showing my passport and entering the country.
That evening once the rain finally ended I witnessed Montenegro’s beauty. After ascending a road that doubled as a hill climb track, I settled for the night at the local fly tipping spot!
Given that I was now beyond the realms of the EU, I opted not to utilize my phone contract, which would have incurred a daily cost of £6.85. This decision introduced a degree of complexity in finding water sources compared to my previous routine. Now, my strategy involved aiming for churches or petrol stations and relying on the presence of taps or approaching locals for assistance. These methods occasionally led me to questionable water sources, such as an incident in Bosnia where a man drew a bucket of water from a well after lifting up what appeared to be a manhole cover, or relying on this pipe in Montenegro which a local assured me was “very good”.
The subsequent morning heralded even more rain. Determined, I charted a course for Albania along the coastline where I could see some blue sky in the distance.
The last few days had proven arduous due to the incessant rainfall. Unfortunately, this hampered my exploration of Montenegro, as my primary focus had shifted to covering miles amidst the wet weather. The forecast, however, appears to be promising, hinting at a more favourable stretch ahead as I cross into my 12th country Albania.
Will Scam 