Leaving the small town of Cao Bang, my journey towards the coast would take me through winding roads and hidden gems. The hostel, more of a motorbike rental shop with attached rooms, was quiet with me getting an entire dorm to myself, reminiscent of my stay in Ha Giang.
The road to Thac Bang Gioc waterfalls took me past Angel Eye Mountain, offering a mesmerising viewpoint of a mountain with a hole in it. I wasn’t expecting much from it, just a quick detour off the route but it was inspiring and the photos taken in the drizzle don’t quite do it justice.
The route to the waterfall was a picturesque journey along quiet roads, leading to the impressive falls on the Chinese border. These are the 4th largest waterfalls on a international border and apparently even better in the rainy season.
Staying close to the China border, I encountered more serene roads winding around the hills that even traversed through a cave at one point.
With the coastal allure beckoning, I embarked on two big days riding mostly on the flat helped by a good draft behind one motorbike. On the 2nd day, it was a bit of a race to catch the final ferry to Cat Ba Island but I still managed to find time to share some beers with the locals.
At the ferry port, a chance encounter added charm to the journey as I met a cycling couple exploring Vietnam on folding bikes. The ferry ride itself proved to be a spectacle, weaving through the mesmerising islands of Ha Long Bay. The sheer number of islands was staggering, with almost all of them having no trace of humans ever stepping foot on them. This left me yearning for a kayak to explore this wilderness in.
Cat Ba Island, the largest of the islands in Ha Long Bay was mostly covered in lush forests, providing a perfect camping spot for that evening. The following day I took very easy, exploring the island and relaxing at the beach. I delved into a cave with a wartime hospital built into it, enjoyed a coffee while planning the next leg of my journey, and cycled it’s amazing costal road before spending another night camped on the island.
Despite its beauty, the island had its quirks, with many unfinished holiday resort building skeletons, reminiscent of those I sighted on Albania’s coast. It was also quite an expensive place, I think just because some shop keepers knew they could charge tourists more. This was confirmed to me when I was able to haggle down the cost of a packet of crisps. I took the direct ferry off the island, then a 130km ride led me to a hostel in Hanoi. This wasn’t a very scenic ride, mostly on duel carriageways but the bustling traffic made the time pass quickly as it forced me to stay attentive.
Taking a stroll through Hanoi, it took around three hours to see the sights. There wasn’t much to do in the city except enjoy the food and nightlife, with it being more of a hub from which travellers explore the north of the country from. The hostel I stayed at was over 7 floors with a nice rooftop terrace and an excellent free breakfast. I also treated myself to a few early Christmas presents, indulging in a new helmet, bike saddle, and headphones.
I had planned earlier this month to spend Christmas in Hanoi, but after making good progress through the north, now the goal is to reach Hoi An for Christmas. This may be too ambitious however, as I’ll need to average 130km a day for the next 8 days to make it. The challenge ahead excites me, as I’m not sure if it’ll be possible but the thought of spending Christmas on the beach will help spur me on.
Will Scam 