Entering Tajikistan marked a dramatic shift from the challenging roads of Uzbekistan to pristine tarmac and a vibrant green landscape. The road traced the path of a powerful river, meandering through a breathtaking valley. The children of Tajikistan greeted you with enthusiasm, shouting hellos and English phrases throughout your journey. It was evident that they were accustomed to cyclists passing through, a contrast to places like Georgia, where locals would often stop and just stare as you rode by.
In the first town we reached, a stop at an ATM was necessary to withdraw Tajik som. Uncertain about the currency’s value, we took a calculated guess and selected the middle option on the screen hoping it would be enough. Wi-Fi had become impossible to find, so I made the decision to purchase a SIM card, which was incredibly affordable at just £6 for 10GB. Whilst in the phone shop, we noticed two cyclists passing by. Without delay, we quickly paid and pursued Damien and Chloe, a couple cycling from France to Australia. We shared a campsite with them for the night before parting ways, with them heading north to Kyrgyzstan while Joris and I continued east towards Dushanbe.
The journey then headed uphill along a beautiful mountain road, introducing us to a great character Ben, a Swiss history and geography teacher. All being similar speeds made traveling together easy. That night, we didn’t quite reach the summit of the pass and so camped at an elevation of 2200 meters. The temperature dropped significantly after sunset, however we built a great fire to stay warm and continue the conversation into the night.
The following day, we encountered a 5km tunnel at the mountain’s peak. This unlit tunnel lacked ventilation, and a police officer at the entrance informed us that cycling through it was not allowed but would stop a truck for us to hitchhike with. After a 20-minute wait, a truck finally stopped for us and we were very relived to not have cycled through.
Emerging on the other side, we were greeted by a stunning view of a valley. Then we got the reward of descending this pass, cycling downhill along a fantastic road, weaving along hillsides and passing through short tunnels.
The majority of the day was spent descending, so we quickly arrived in the capital, Dushanbe, early in the afternoon.
In Dushanbe, we secured accommodations at a hostel for two nights, as needed permits for going into the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO), which encompasses the Pamir Mountains and shares a border with Afghanistan. These were easily acquired, however it would be a day until we could pick them up.
Additionally, I tended to bike repairs, fixing my pannier bags that had been held together by cable ties since Italy!
We got beds in the Green House Hostel which was bustling with cyclists, creating a lively atmosphere. In the courtyard, you observed about 10 bikes, all belonging to individuals embarking on or returning from the mountains. Conversations with those who had recently returned from the mountains provided valuable insights, and you could easily distinguish the returning adventurers by their weary appearances and clear exhaustion.
During our two nights in Dushanbe, we explored the local cuisine, which featured plenty of meat, bread, and soup. It was very affordable with a large meal and beers only costing about £5. The city had a very modern appearance with well known western shops and also lots of fancy but empty buildings.
We were now ready and very excited to head into the mountains. This will be the toughest part of my journey so far but also the part I’d been most looking forward to since planning the trip.
Will Scam 