cycling – Will Scam

Gear Review

This will probably be the final update from the trip, going into depth on the kit I brought with me. It’s not really a review of the gear, but more just my opinions of everything I brought and how it compared to other peoples setups.

Bike
It was definitely a love hate relationship with the bike depending on if I was experiencing any problems. I never really had a chance to put it through its paces before setting off, but I had no major issues the whole way. The disc brakes required quite a bit of maintenance: tightening, cleaning or replacing the pads frequently due to the extra stress from the weight of the gear, but I’m not sure calliper brakes would’ve been any different. I would’ve liked to have the room for larger tyres, although I managed with 38mm and the Schwalbe Marathon plus tyres were incredibly durable and puncture proof lasting the entire trip.

Pannier bags
I had some cheap waterproof ones costing £30 each from Halfords. The material held up most of the way, getting a small rip from the seam on one bag and the hook holding them to the rack came off too. I was able to fix this with some nuts, bolts and bungee, however I think I’ll upgrade them for the next trip to the twice as expensive Ortlieb branded bags.

Waterproof bags
I had two big thin waterproof bags I used inside the panniers, as before the trip started I wasn’t sure how waterproof the pannier bags would be. These were useful just to keep the clothes organised and doubled up as a pillow.

Pannier Rack
This was taken off an old bike before the trip and snapped in Laos. Fortunately, as it was steel I could get it welded back together. I think it’s probably one of the most important bit of kit, as it would be incredibly challenging to carry everything if it broke.

Fork cages
I will definitely be upgrading to a proper front rack and front pannier bags for my next trip, but chose the front fork cages and waterproof bags as it was a significantly cheaper alternative. They took too long to put on and off the bike along with never feeling very secure bouncing around lots on bumpy roads. This was probably partly my fault trying to carry too much with them and toward the end, they were only held on with zip ties.

Frame bag
This was another cheap bag and worked well. It claimed to be waterproof, but I never trusted it and one of the zips broke. This was vital to be able to store bits to access whilst riding along.

Large Dry Bag
This worked well just being strapped to the top of the rack filled with light bulky stuff: sleeping bag, air bed, rain coat and tent poles. The straps soon broke, my fault wrapping them up in the wheel and I should’ve cut them shorter. I’ll keep this for the next trip, but get a new dry bag with backpack straps which can double up as a day bag for when I’m not cycling.

Bottles and Bottle Cages
The bottles I started with quickly became disgusting with a thin layer of slime on the inside and got thrown away after a few months. I ended up using 1.5L plastic coke or water bottles most of the time which worked better as the screw lids kept the mouth piece from getting coated in dirt and I could regularly swap them out. The metal bottle holders were forgiving, with the flexibility to be bent to fit pretty much any size or shape bottle.

Camelbak
I brought both the bladder and backpack with me and used it regularly because it was a good way to carry some extra water without adding weight onto the rear rack. It was also great on the bumpy roads as it was a quick way to drink without having to reach down grab a bottle, then unscrew the top whilst riding along. The one problem is in the heat it just makes you hotter as where its in contact with your back it’s like wearing another layer of clothing.

Handlebar bag
This is where I stored my tent and it worked well storing it separate to the air bed and sleeping bag as it was often damp. Most of the other cyclist I met had Orlieb handlebar bag that looked great for keeping valuables in and to quickly unclip from the bike to take with them into a shop. It’s also another storage bag easily accessed when on the move or to grab stuff from without going through the slow process of unclipping then unrolling the pannier bag.

Bumbag
This was stored in my pannier bag and used to store my valuables mainly passports, money and cards. I had 4 bank cards with me but would mainly just use my Monzo travel card and occasionally the starling card if I’d withdrawn the monthly limit of cash using the Monzo. It would’ve been good to also have a visa travel card as occasionally places would not accept Mastercard. I was also travelling with a few hundred USD which I was able to withdraw from Georgian ATMs which I’m glad I had for emergencies.

Clothes

It was difficult deciding how much to bring, as the clothes quickly piled up packing for the negative temperatures of the Pamir mountains, the heat of the Kazakh desert and the humidity of Indonesian wet season. I think the solution is to pack light and just buy items when you need it, then dump them when you don’t. Toward the end of the trip, I had some extra layers and just three outfits, one for wearing on the bike, then two other sets of shorts and t-shirt for wearing at camp which I’d swap between trying to keep one set clean for if I was staying somewhere or able to wash.

Cycling Shorts
I started with bib shorts but once these were destroyed after wearing them for 3 months I just got a pair of cheap Decathlon cycling shorts. The bib shorts were an annoyance when you needed to go to the toilet whilst wearing lots of layers and then too warm in the South East Asian humidity.

Cycling Tops
I began with a lightweight cycling jersey which was good to have the pockets on the back, but once it was ruined I just wore button up shirts which were nice to be able to unbutton to stay cool. Having a long sleeve was also useful to not have to worry about applying suncream or insect repellent. Picking a darker coloured top would’ve been smart to hide the dirt.

Bike Shoes
I had clip in bike shoes and I’m not sure they were necessary. Most other bikepackers just had good walking shoes. After 8 months these got binned in Bali, as they were in pieces.

Puffer Jacket
This was great. It packed up really small and was a warm layer. Mine was a cheap Primark one although I’d love a Rab down jacket but I’m not sure I could justify the cost of one.

Arm Warmers/Leg Warmers
I’d never tried these before the trip but liked them. They packed away really small and effectively gave an extra layer that I’d quickly throw on before descending the mountain passes.

Thermals
I brought 2 thermal with me on the trip but probably could’ve managed with one. It was nice to have one for sleeping in and one for cycling in but I only wore both of them at the same time for a single night. Generally, it would be the last extra layer I’d go for when it was cold just because it was a pain to take on and off and I’d often get too warm wearing them.

Trekking Trousers
These were trousers with zips so you could wear them as shorts and ended up being really useful. These were good to put on whilst cycling when it got really cold as they acted as a windproof layer covering my legs. It was important to have a pair of long trousers with me for when I visited mosques and these were a good light option.

Hat, Gloves and Buff
All more essential layers for when it got cold. The buff was also good when the sun was really strong or after soaked in water to breath through on the very dusty roads.

Waterproofs
I’m not sure the best solution for a waterproof jacket, I brought two, a lightweight cycling one and a large gortex jacket. The gortex jacket was quite bulky but was a great windproof layer that I could fit it over the top of the puffer jacket. The cycling jacket was great to quickly throw on if it rained or as an extra layer in the morning before the sun rose. I always felt the gortex jacket was taking up too much room but was still an important item to have.

Flip flops
They were nice for camp in the evenings just to get out of the cycling shoes I’d worn all day. I think I’d prefer crocks as then I could cycle in them too when it was raining as it wasn’t nice wearing wet cycling shoes all day long.

Socks
I ended up buying lots of pairs along the way as they would get so dirty. I tried going without socks for a bit too but it wasn’t comfortable doing this all day.

Towel
I had a small microfiber towel which I really don’t like, but there’s no good replacement for them as they’re quick drying, lightweight and small.

Camping Gear

Tent
By the end of the trip, the tent was pretty wrecked. The pole had snapped and there were holes in the base material where ants could crawl in. Having said that however, I still have the tent with me and really liked it. It was a Trespass 2 man costing under £100 and weighed about 2kg. Having a 2 man tent was definitely worth it just for the extra room to store bags inside. It also had a removable outer waterproof layer which was really nice when sleeping in the heat as it kept you cooler with the air blowing through. Being freestanding was vital as I was often camping out on gravel or concrete so could set the tent up without needing to use the pegs.

Sleeping mat.
I made it through two sleeping mats on the trip. The inner structure broke on the first mat, giving it a large bubble when inflated making it useless and so I got a new one in Bangkok. Both were just cheap ones and worked fine. They were both durable, never getting any punctured in them but I’ve heard lighter, more expensive ones puncture more easily. One problem was the cold from the ground would come up through the mat but after taking a foam mat for free from a hostel, this solved the problem. The foam mat was also great for just sitting on when cooking or using as a pillow so it stayed with me for the rest of the trip.

Sleeping bag
This was one of the fancier bits of kit I picked up before leaving, buying a down bag rated to -16 degrees. It was too warm most of the time but I was glad to have it for some cold nights. I wish I’d brought a sleeping bag liner to use when it was warm and also to stop the bag getting so dirty, as I was unable to wash the downs material whilst on the road. It also didn’t pack up too small but was a good balance between warmth, size and cost.

Cooking set
I went for an alcohol burning Trangia stove. This kit came with two bowls both 1L which were too small and I’d often need to make two bowls of pasta in the evenings. I think just one big pot would be better. I was able to find fuel everywhere occasionally resorting to burn paint thinner or hand sanitiser. This kit was cheaper than the petrol burning stoves but I think I’d upgrade to one of them in the future to allow me to use a larger pot and boil water faster as this kit struggled a bit in the cold.

The only bit of cutlery I brought was a spoon, which was all I needed. I wasn’t particularly doing complicated cooking, mostly just some pasta or rice then veg and some kind of protein source out a tin. To wash everything, I’d just scrub it with my hand under a tap or in a stream.

Swiss army knife
I mainly used the knife and tin opener when cooking but by the end of the trip I’d used every other feature it offered.

Cigarette Lighters
I’d always carry two with me as always be leaving them out overnight, then it being too wet to light the stove the following morning.

Water filter
I could’ve survived through Central Asia without it, as in the villages we could find water and in the mountains the streams were so clear they seemed safe to drink. I used it frequently in South East Asia, filtering the tap water everywhere I was told it was unsafe to drink in order to save buying bottled water. Filtering the water took some time and effort, taking probably about 3mins to fill up a 2L bottle and just not bothering to filter anything that wasn’t already clear as this would just clog the filter.

Bike Tools and Spares

Inner tubes, puncture repair kit, tire levers and good pump
It was good having the puncture repair kit in addition to the spare tubes as it’s such a small kit and just gives you more redundancy if tubes burst.

Spare spokes
They’re so small and light I think it’s work carrying a few. I managed to snap two spokes on separate occasions when pushing my bike through branches in the forest. Also with all the extra weight on the bike it puts more pressure on the spokes so snapping one is more likely.

Gear cables, brake cable and brake pads
They’re all so small and light so defiantly worth bringing spares. I’d try to always have two sets of new brake pads as they were sometimes quite hard to find.

Bike Multitool
It’s a lightweight option for being able to adjust every bolt on the bike. Also good to have a chain tool and spoke wrench on it.

Cable ties, paracord, duct tape and super glue
Should be able to bodge anything back together for a bit with these.

Spare bolts
I was glad to have replacement bolts for everything on the bike. Especially the pannier racks as these were always coming loose.

Bike lock
It was hard to decide what sort of lock to choose. A D lock is probably overkill so I went for a decent combination cable lock. I reckon where the bike is left is more of a factor than what lock you use.

Chain lube and old tooth brush
For trying to clean everything and keep it running smooth.

Toiletries and First Aid

Toothbrush, Toothpaste and Dental floss
Good to keep them where you can reach it on the bike to save time in the mornings by brushing your teeth on the move.

Toilet paper
I’d grab this from public toilets or hostels.

Bar of soap
All I took for washing myself and clothes.

Bug spray
I really liked the one from 7eleven in South East Asia, it was strong and a nice small bottle.

Suncream
I found the Lidl factor 50+ kids waterproof one worked best and I’d only need to apply it every few days. I’d often buy suncream before leaving a country if I had any cash left over as it’s something small and expensive to spend it on.

Glasses, sunglasses and contact lenses
I just had 3 pairs of contact lenses in case the glasses broke to give me a few days to find somewhere to get them fixed. Luckily, I had no problems.

Sudocrem
This was about the only thing I used in the first aid kit. It can be used for almost anything minor that is likely to happen: burns, sunburn, bites, blisters, chafing and as an antiseptic for cleaning wounds.

Paracetamol
I think I took it once to help with altitude sickness but always good to have.

Spray plaster
I really like the stuff, just being able to clean a small wound and spray this over to cover it up. Then just regularly apply more layers to keep it covered. I never ended up using it though.

Tweezers/tick remover
This was used a few times getting ticks camping out in French forests.

Bandages, plasters, steri strips and dressings
I took a selection of different sizes. I think it’s hard to know if you’ve overpacked for this as you don’t expect to or want to use any of it and fortunately I didn’t.

Electronics

Bike Computer
This was very much a love hate relationship. The first problems occurred leaving Europe and losing all maps as it only had the one continent downloaded. Eventually, I found a computer to borrow and load the rest of the countries I needed. Next, I’d have issues with it not charging or just freezing. I don’t think it was designed to be left on for 10 hours a day every day. When it did work, it was great though being able to see the roads, see the gradients to know the size of all the hills coming up and record everything for Strava without burning through phone battery.

Phone
Mostly just used for researching places and planning a route along with taking photos.

Waterproof phone case
This was really great, just one of those pouches to put the phone in and seal up. I’d often leave my phone in it just to give it some extra protection from either the dust or rain. Then pretty much always use it after having to buy a new phone when mine became water damaged.

Headphones
I went through a few pairs of cheap headphones but it was really nice to be able to listen to music or podcasts during dull days of riding.

Bike Lights
I didn’t use them that often but glad to have.

Head Torch
Really useful. I’d often wear it cycling at night just to be more visible and be able to look to the side of the road for camp spots. It was also used lots when I was staying in hostels to find stuff in the dark rooms. The red light feature was nice too to use when reading before bed.

Power Banks
I took two large power banks with me and could go about two weeks before I needed to plug them in. I didn’t carry a solar panel as it worked out cheaper to just take an extra power bank. One Problem I had was that my older power bank just took too long to charge and so if it was fully out of juice it wouldn’t charge up completely overnight.

Sim tool
A safety pin worked fine but I’d always end up losing this tiny tool when I actually needed it.

Charging cables
Definitely worth having two of each type as they were often breaking, I think from getting dirt inside.

This has been quite a long post, but it has been nice to reflect on the kit as I begin planning the next trip. I’m sure I’ve forgotten to include a few obvious things from the list, writing it 4 months later from memory. The truth is the gear really doesn’t matter, anything can be bought whilst on the road and if anything fails, this only adds to the adventure.

Georgia

Upon entering Georgia, I followed the Black Sea coast north to reach the city of Batumi. Serge’s words from the bus journey resonated with me – he had predicted that I might not enjoy Batumi. According to him, it was a place where affluent Turks would showcase their wealth. As I arrived, the city’s architecture stood out, I felt it was attempting to emulate the ultra-modern Middle Eastern city vibe. However, due to these new builds being constructed around the existing soviet structures, the blend didn’t quite work. My stay in Batumi was brief, just enough to grab some food and money before heading east into the mountains.

For the remainder of the day, I headed east, ascending through a gorge on a breathtaking road. Rain finally greeted me, the first since Istanbul, and it appeared that the night would be wet.

Luck led me to a great picnic area where I set up camp. This sheltered spot allowed me to avoid using the tent, sleeping on a table while keeping both myself and my belongings dry. A friendly cat joined me, providing company by resting directly on top of me throughout the rainy night.

The subsequent day, I climbed to an elevation of 2000 meters. While I expected a challenging ascent, I hadn’t anticipated such poor road conditions. The slow pace kept the climb engaging, requiring me to constantly survey the road for holes to avoid.

In one village, a man offered me a drink outside his home, presenting a bottle of fizzy water. Accepting his kindness, I realised as shot glasses emerged that water wasn’t what was being poured. It turned out to be some sort of raki, which at 11am did little to help me up the mountain.

Eventually, I reached the summit, only to face road works on the descent. The road was constantly transitioning from fresh tarmac to deep gravel. In one of these sections, I came off my bike right in front of the workers. They kindly assisted me in cleaning up, but I think found the whole thing quite funny.

As the road conditions improved, I made steady progress and camped by a river that night, accompanied by a friendly dog who slept outside my tent the whole night.

The following day demanded a long climb to a plateau, accompanied by a persistent headwind. The higher altitude brought cold temperatures, with me finding myself amidst the clouds once at the summit.

Descending through a village, a group of men beckoned me over while enjoying a meal by the church. They extended their hospitality, offering me a plate of lamb stew cooked over an open fire, along with bread. The meal was a welcome reward after a strenuous day. With each empty plate, they refilled it promptly. There was also plenty of vodka to go round, with toasts followed by shots about every 15 minutes. I never knew what I was drinking to as these men spoke no English but I still had a great time joining in.

As the night fell, one of the men gestured for me to follow him, offering me a room in his home. I took him up on his offer and it was fascinating observing his way of life. The house was very simple with no running water and an outside toilet.

After spending a day descending, reaping the rewards of the climbs I had conquered. I established camp 20km outside Tbilisi and headed into the city the following morning.

Within an hour, I realised that I had already explored much of what the city had to offer. It wasn’t particularly touristy, so I decided to head to a nearby lake for a refreshing swim and a much-needed wash.

My next task was to aquire a box for my bike. Finding one was relatively straightforward, and I managed to get one at the fourth bike shop I visited. However, I was charged around £10 for it, which I later learned was the norm in Tbilisi. Due to the Georgia-Azerbaijan border closure, to reach Kazakhstan, one must either pass through Russia, Iran, or take a flight. Most people opt for the latter, resulting in high demand for bike boxes in the city.

I decided to attempt cycling the 20 km to the airport with the cumbersome box. This proved to be quite a challenge, carrying it under my arm, and it became a bit nerve-wracking when the wind picked up. Nonetheless, I managed to make it to the airport.

Upon my arrival at the airport, I encountered five cyclists who had just arrived from Japan and were embarking on a journey around Georgia. They were busy assembling their bikes and trying to get rid of 5 bike boxes!

I packed my bike into the box, along with most of my bags, sealed it up with plenty of tape, and headed into the airport.

Georgia had emerged as my favourite country to travel through so far. The cycling had been exceptional, featuring remarkable mountain passes, and the locals had consistently displayed genuine friendliness. My culinary experiences had also been a highlight, with a variety of sweets and fantastic bakeries offering delicious savoury pastries which are always a surprise as to what they are stuffed full of.

Eastern Turkey

Once my bike was repaired, I set my course for Cappadocia. Even though it meant cycling back west, I was determined to explore this UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for its unique rock formations. Covering the 80km distance in good time, I had the opportunity to explore the area before needing to find a camping spot. The distinctiveness of this small region within Turkey stood out remarkably with such a different geography.

In the evening, I headed to one of the viewpoints overlooking the town of Göreme, where I intended to camp. Engaging in conversation with a man who ran a pony riding business, he advised me on a suitable camping spot and informed me I’d need to wake up at 5am to see the mesmerizing spectacle of the balloons. With this knowledge, I got an early night in anticipation.

The following morning, as the sky started to exhibit hues of color during sunrise, the first balloons gradually ascended, initially appearing as silhouettes against the sky. With the ignition of the hot flames within the balloons, they illuminated, creating a spectacular display against the backdrop of the rising sun. As the balloons approached, their vibrant colours became more pronounced, and I witnessed their graceful descent, some landing impressively onto trailers by the road. It was truly a breathtaking sight to behold.

Later that morning, I explored more of Cappadocia, visiting the town of Ürgüp before returning to Kayseri.

My next plan involved taking an overnight bus covering a distance of around 800 km towards Georgia. Procuring the bus ticket was relatively straightforward, but loading my bike onto the bus posed a challenge. The staff member responsible for loading the bus insisted there was no space underneath the coach for my bike, despite evidence to the contrary. Eventually I just placed my bike on the bus, and he reluctantly helped me pack items around it, clearly unimpressed.

At the bus stop, I encountered Serge, a Russian traveler heading to Sochi. He was on the same bus, undertaking a three-day bus journey due to the unavailability of flights to Russia. He had been working in Turkey as an engineer and spoke English and Turkish fluently. We shared travel experiences and he was incredibly helpful guiding me through the Turkish bus experience.

The 15-hour bus ride was made more bearable with onboard Wi-Fi. I spent the journey planning, doing admin, and managing to catch some sleep.

As the sun rose, the bus traveled alongside the Black Sea amidst a storm, providing a stark contrast to the dry climate I’d experienced for the last week.

It was nice to get the legs moving again after the bus journey. I set off from the town of Hopa on the Black Sea coast and short 20km ride remained before reaching Georgia. Despite online reports about the challenges of cycling through the Black Sea tunnels in Turkey, I found them manageable. The echoing sounds of approaching lorries within the tunnels could be intimidating, but I quickly became accustomed to it.

Crossing the border proved time-consuming. A 45-minute wait in a queue of cars marked my exit from Turkey. On the Georgian side, the process resembled navigating through an airport terminal, wheeling my bike along. Georgian border officials meticulously inspected my passport, using magnifying glasses and testing my knowledge of its contents but let me through with no problem.

I found Turkey’s heat and cycling along busy roads very draining at times and unfortunately didn’t have time to take a longer route on the smaller roads. However, I very much enjoyed the people and the food of this country. With my favourite foods from Turkey included Turkish sausage, various kebabs, and my newfound addiction to Fuze tea, a very sweet iced tea drink. I now look forward to the change in scenery and culture that Georgia promises.

Greece

When I looked at the map, I realized that finding a suitable camping spot for my first night in Greece would be a challenge. The landscape seemed to be primarily farmland, and my attempt to camp by an abandoned building was thwarted by a group of barking sheepdogs. I hurriedly left the scene to avoid the shepherd’s intervention.

About an hour later, I encountered Lazarus, who recognised my predicament and suggested I camp in the churchyard. Although initially hesitant, he assured me it was safe and that the walled garden would shield me from wild dogs, though perhaps not from the bears which had been spotted in the village that week!

The following day, I embarked on an extensive cycle toward Thessaloniki. Covering 140km, my goal was simply to reach the coast, as the monotony of cycling through farmland had started to take its toll.

Thessaloniki proved to be a busy touristy city with a large harbour but nowhere really to swim. That evening, I peddled into the nearby hills to set up camp and enjoyed a view overlooking the city.

On the third day, I joined a road that would essentially lead me to Turkey. The towns along the way boasted bustling beaches with rows of umbrellas and vendors selling shade, which made the cycling somewhat mundane. Nonetheless, the main road facilitated efficient progress. That night, I ventured to a beach for dinner and a swim, hoping to camp there if it was quiet enough. There were a few tents set up already on the beach and when enquiring with one of the campers if I could sleep there for free he said it should be fine.

The following day’s cycling proved strenuous. Battling a headwind from the start, I knew it would only intensify as the day progressed. Since my route headed east all day, the relentless wind gave me no respite, and certain stretches became particularly grueling, especially when the road became exposed running alongside a lake.

That evening posed another camping challenge with little wilderness on route. I ended up finding refuge in some bushes behind a local park, enduring the persistent barking of dogs – a sound I had grown accustomed to. Throughout Greece I’ve had many dogs chasing me and barking relentlessly at me as I’ve cycled past them.

Forming an opinion about Greece has proven tricky. While I’ve cherished moments on picturesque sandy beaches, there have also been instances where the monotonous stretches of road, lasting up to 50 km, have tempted me to try and hitchhike. I’ve noticed that Greece tends to be pricier than the preceding countries, including Croatia. I’m eagerly anticipating the change as I transition into Turkey, and I’ve also made the decision to extend my journey by an additional 2,000 km. I’ll be continuing through Istanbul and heading towards Tbilisi, Georgia, before finally flying to Aktau, Kazakhstan.

Slovenia and Northern Croatia

Opting to skip Slovenia, I headed straight for Croatia. This led me to cycle 14 km through a deserted forest road, stopping only once for water. I decided to save Slovenia for another trip; fellow travelers who’ve cycled through there extol its beauty. However, I wanted to continue along the coast and didn’t fancy the Slovenian mountains!

The border crossing from Slovenia to Croatia was deserted. Where once there was clearly a barbed wire fence and multiple checkpoints, now just empty buildings since Croatia joined the Schengen Zone in 2023.

Croatia is a very popular country for cycle tourists, evidenced within my first 10 km in the country. There, I encountered Burak, a Turkish cyclist pedaling from Germany to Istanbul. His electric bike towed a self-designed “caravan” , a sight to behold. He was an intriguing character who might have convinced me to continue past Istanbul and further into Turkey. In just two weeks, he’d garnered 20,000 Instagram followers through documenting his trip. As we parted ways, he let me sign his caravan and promised to give me a shout out on Instagram.

Wild camping is prohibited in Croatia, and I’ve been told the police patrol the costal areas to search for people. Therefore, I camped away from the coast in the mountainous regions each night, where vast forests blanketed most of the land.

The geography of Croatia makes it a challenge to cycle through, with little flat land by the coast. This means that wherever you want to go, you either have to take the busy main road with aggressive drivers who give you no space and attempt risky overtakes, or head up into the mountains.

On my second day in the country, I decided to head over the mountains and inland to cover some distance. It was amazing how quiet the country became once I left the very touristy areas. I found a beautiful spot by a lake to have dinner that evening before heading into some woods to camp for the night.

On day 3, I cycled on some beautiful roads with brilliant descents in the direction of Zadar. I spent a long time that day trying to find fuel for my stove searching many hardwear shops, and eventually found 70% alcohol in a pharmacy to use.

The following day, as I headed to Zadar, I met up with Leila, who was cycling to Istanbul from her home in Austria. We had first met a few days ago at a supermarket, and after she had finished cycling the Croatian islands, we agreed to meet up and travel together. It was really nice to share this amazing country with someone else.

That evening, we decided to camp up a hill in a forest but stopped at a beach to have dinner and a swim. As I was getting my cooker out, a man asked us, “Are you camping here tonight?” After explaining that we were just eating then going to leave, he began to question us about why we weren’t camping in this beautiful spot, telling us we’d be fine. This man was Jimmy, a 60-year-old man from Manchester who retired at 49 and spends every summer living in an RV in Croatia. That evening, he generously kept coming over to us with beers and we had a trouble free night not even bothering with our tents.

The next day was scorching hot. Leila and I cycled along the coast together, with Leila handling the navigation, which was a nice break from thinking about it myself. That afternoon, after having ice cream and beer, Leila and I parted ways. I decided to head inland towards Bosnia and Herzegovina, while she continued along the coast.

Heading for the border, I stoped at a cafe to do some admin and charge up my electronics. This is where I met Ivan, who kindly paid for my coffee because he felt sorry for me due to all the times Croatia had beaten England at football!

Croatia has felt more like a holiday than an adventure. It’s been a beautiful country and very easy to travel through, with most people speaking at least a bit of English. I’m looking forward to retuning in a few days but wanted to experience Bosnia and Herzegovina first.

Switzerland

Before embarking on this trip, my encounters with Switzerland had been brief. I’d visited twice before: once landing at Geneva airport before heading straight for the French border and also driving there last year but only stay for 4 hours before heading home!

Switzerland’s strict laws on wild camping made me a bit more paranoid than usual, knowing that a fine of 1000CHF (£900) could be levied if caught. However unlikely this is to actually be enforced, it was always on the back of my mind. Furthermore, with limited flat land due to farms and urban areas, finding suitable camping spots became more challenging than in France.

My first day in Switzerland saw me cycling a daunting 190 kilometers, more than planned, to reach Zurich. Thankfully, Christoph, an experienced bikepacker, offered me a place to stay, and together, we mapped out my route through Switzerland and over the Alps.

On the second day, I tried to avoid the hills, instead following the picturesque shores of Lake Zurich and Walesee.

It was delightful cycling on fantastic cycle paths, but I had to race against an approaching storm, eventually seeking refuge under a bridge to cook dinner whilst it passed.

Camping near a serene river, I decided to set off early the next morning to reduce the risk of getting found camping. My journey led me up into the majestic Alps, starting with a grueling climb to the ski town of Davos. The ascent through the forest proved tough but rewarding.

The Flüelapass, another challenging climb at 2383 meters, greeted me with inclement weather, making the crossing over the top and the slippery descent on the other side a nerve-wracking cold and wet experience.

Heading towards the Italian border, the weather was constantly changing between each valley I entered and I never knew what it would be like over the next climb. My method of dealing with this was to just keep cycling really and then at least I shouldn’t be getting cold. I then conquered the Bernina Pass and Forcola di Livigno, both rewarding me with breathtaking Alpine views and some brilliant descents.

As a storm approached, I found myself seeking shelter under another bridge, this time in the town of Livigno. Known for being an isolated duty-free zone, it offered a unique shopping experience for travelers passing through to stock up on alcohol, petrol and chocolate. Once the storm passed, I camped out in a forrest next to a stunning lake at 1800m elevation for the night.

Switzerland had been a captivating country, unlike anything I had experienced in the UK. Its stunning landscapes and excellent cycle paths made it a true delight to explore. I’d love to return to the Alps again one day to complete more of the iconic climbs but maybe with a lighter bike next time!

Spectating the Tour de France

As part of my trip, I had always dreamt of watching the Tour de France, and Stage 20 seemed like the perfect opportunity. The stage was set in the scenic hills of the Alsace region, making it an ideal spot to witness the action up close. I decided to cycle up the final hill of the stage and find a spot near the summit to spectate.

As I pedaled my way into the Alsace mountains, I noticed a steady stream of cyclists all heading in the same direction, with many coming over from Germany for the day to catch a glimpse of the race. The atmosphere was electric even before reaching the race route.

As I climbed the Col Du Platzerwasel, the road was already packed with camper vans, cars, and passionate fans, despite it being 11 am, a good 6 hours before the race was expected to pass. The climb was alive with cheers and EuroParty anthems blaring from speakers, creating a motivating and exciting environment.

Reaching the summit took me about 50 minutes, a far cry from the pros who later conquered it in under 20 minutes. While not classified as one of the highest category climbs in the Tour, the summit stood at an impressive 1187 meters, which is higher than the peak of Snowdon. I then descended about 350 meters to a section with a 14% gradient to watch the race from.

The anticipation rose as the caravan appeared, a colourful parade of floats tossing souvenirs to the cheering fans. After making friends with a group of Germans next to me, I was now in direct competition with them to catch anything being thrown our way. In the end I managed to catch quite a few souvenirs to remember my day by.

The sound of helicopters signaled the approaching race, followed by race official cars and motorbikes attempting to manage the crowd in order to make space in the road for the cyclist to pass. However, despite their efforts, and that of two policemen they couldn’t do much to control the enthusiastic 500-strong crowd from getting up close to the race.

When the riders finally zoomed past, I was taken aback by their size, looking much younger than expected. Jonas and Tadej, the top riders of the year, looked about 15 years old. Furthermore, being within touching distance to the race was a very surreal experience.

Cheering on the other riders as they conquered the hill brought joy and camaraderie to the crowd, with French stars Pinot and Alaphilippe receiving the loudest cheers.

After the race had passed, I cycled up to the finish area, where preparations were already underway to dismantle the course. The thrilling day concluded with a somewhat nerve-wracking descent alongside fellow cyclists, many of whom were quite drunk by this point.

None of us in the crowd had phone signal, likely due to the remote hillside location, this meant I didn’t know who’d even won till I’d set up camp that evening. Watching the race back I was trying to spot myself on the cameras and I think you can just about see the back of my head!

It was an unforgettable day, and a great conclusion to my time in France. It’s been a great and rather easy country to cycle through and I’d love to return to follow the race through the Alps one day.

Northern France and Belgium

After arriving in Calais, I, along with two other cycle tourists, received a car escort out of the port, allowing us to bypass the queues and begin our journey smoothly. I joined EuroVelo 5, a long-distance cycling route from Canterbury to Italy, where I enjoyed the ease of riding along the well-maintained paved canal paths.

While the EuroVelo 5 continued towards Brussels, I opted to head south towards Douai. There, I found accommodation with Claire, who offered a much-needed shower and a quick tour of the City.

After she shared her food with me, we met up with some of her friends and celebrated Bastille Day for which the city put on a firework display.

The following morning, we visited a bustling French market and I stocked up on delicious cheeses to fuel me through the day.

After camping in a forrest on the Belgium border for a night, I crossed into Belgium traveling through some small Belgian villages, making sure to indulge in their famous waffles for sustenance.

Soon, I found myself back in France in the scenic Ardennes Regional Park, where a pleasant bike trail offered stunning views of the river Meuse and its valley.

Camping has been relatively straightforward, with most nights spent in peaceful forested areas away from the road. As for food, I relied on simple provisions, snacking on baguettes with Nutella during the day and having tinned protein (generally lentils or Beans), tinned veg, and some carbs for dinner.

Riding along the bike trails has been far more enjoyable so far than the roads so, I made my way back to Belgium to rejoin the EuroVelo 5 route, which will guide me through more new countries of Luxembourg and Germany.