Will Scammell

Italy

Last summer, I completed a cycling journey from Naples to Tuscany, which gave me a glimpse of what to expect while cycling through Italy. As I planned my return, one thing I was eagerly looking forward to was the delectable Italian cuisine.

A significant part of my adventure involved conquering one of the legendary climbs in the Alps – the Passo dello Stelvio. Spanning 21.3 km, this climb boasts an average gradient of 7.1% and features 27 hairpin bends on the way up and 48 on the way down.

Despite the challenges, I persevered and completed the ascent in 3 hours, rewarded with an awe-inspiring view from the top and an exhilarating descent of over 2000m elevation loss for the rest of the day. The struggle of hauling my bike to the top was well worth the experience.

Continuing my journey through Italy, I decided to stick to flat terrains and cover around 140km a day. This allowed me guilt-free indulgence in the country’s delectable foods – family-sized tiramisu, pizzas, gelato, an array of hams, cheeses, and my own rendition of risotto (though the Italians might not call it that!).

Heading south out of the Alps and then the Dolomites, I primarily stuck to the main roads to cover more ground with ease. Finding suitable places to camp proved surprisingly easy, and one memorable night I settled at Magredi del Cellina – a dried-up riverbed surrounded by vast grasslands.

I also had the pleasure of swimming/having a wash in the refreshing waters of Lago di Caldonazzo, a fantastic lake and park equipped with toilets, showers, and free electric sockets (designed for e-bike charging).

On my fourth and final day in Italy, I reached the Adriatic Sea, where a much-needed swim awaited after a scorching day of cycling.

The weather had considerably warmed up since crossing the Alps, and I hadn’t needed my outer layer for my tent – until a sudden thunderstorm at 2 am on the final night, that is!

Exploring a different region of Italy that I hadn’t visited before has been an enriching experience and there’s still so much of the country I’ve yet to explore. I’m looking forward to the next part of my journey mostly following the coast down the Adriatic Sea.

Switzerland

Before embarking on this trip, my encounters with Switzerland had been brief. I’d visited twice before: once landing at Geneva airport before heading straight for the French border and also driving there last year but only stay for 4 hours before heading home!

Switzerland’s strict laws on wild camping made me a bit more paranoid than usual, knowing that a fine of 1000CHF (£900) could be levied if caught. However unlikely this is to actually be enforced, it was always on the back of my mind. Furthermore, with limited flat land due to farms and urban areas, finding suitable camping spots became more challenging than in France.

My first day in Switzerland saw me cycling a daunting 190 kilometers, more than planned, to reach Zurich. Thankfully, Christoph, an experienced bikepacker, offered me a place to stay, and together, we mapped out my route through Switzerland and over the Alps.

On the second day, I tried to avoid the hills, instead following the picturesque shores of Lake Zurich and Walesee.

It was delightful cycling on fantastic cycle paths, but I had to race against an approaching storm, eventually seeking refuge under a bridge to cook dinner whilst it passed.

Camping near a serene river, I decided to set off early the next morning to reduce the risk of getting found camping. My journey led me up into the majestic Alps, starting with a grueling climb to the ski town of Davos. The ascent through the forest proved tough but rewarding.

The Flüelapass, another challenging climb at 2383 meters, greeted me with inclement weather, making the crossing over the top and the slippery descent on the other side a nerve-wracking cold and wet experience.

Heading towards the Italian border, the weather was constantly changing between each valley I entered and I never knew what it would be like over the next climb. My method of dealing with this was to just keep cycling really and then at least I shouldn’t be getting cold. I then conquered the Bernina Pass and Forcola di Livigno, both rewarding me with breathtaking Alpine views and some brilliant descents.

As a storm approached, I found myself seeking shelter under another bridge, this time in the town of Livigno. Known for being an isolated duty-free zone, it offered a unique shopping experience for travelers passing through to stock up on alcohol, petrol and chocolate. Once the storm passed, I camped out in a forrest next to a stunning lake at 1800m elevation for the night.

Switzerland had been a captivating country, unlike anything I had experienced in the UK. Its stunning landscapes and excellent cycle paths made it a true delight to explore. I’d love to return to the Alps again one day to complete more of the iconic climbs but maybe with a lighter bike next time!

Spectating the Tour de France

As part of my trip, I had always dreamt of watching the Tour de France, and Stage 20 seemed like the perfect opportunity. The stage was set in the scenic hills of the Alsace region, making it an ideal spot to witness the action up close. I decided to cycle up the final hill of the stage and find a spot near the summit to spectate.

As I pedaled my way into the Alsace mountains, I noticed a steady stream of cyclists all heading in the same direction, with many coming over from Germany for the day to catch a glimpse of the race. The atmosphere was electric even before reaching the race route.

As I climbed the Col Du Platzerwasel, the road was already packed with camper vans, cars, and passionate fans, despite it being 11 am, a good 6 hours before the race was expected to pass. The climb was alive with cheers and EuroParty anthems blaring from speakers, creating a motivating and exciting environment.

Reaching the summit took me about 50 minutes, a far cry from the pros who later conquered it in under 20 minutes. While not classified as one of the highest category climbs in the Tour, the summit stood at an impressive 1187 meters, which is higher than the peak of Snowdon. I then descended about 350 meters to a section with a 14% gradient to watch the race from.

The anticipation rose as the caravan appeared, a colourful parade of floats tossing souvenirs to the cheering fans. After making friends with a group of Germans next to me, I was now in direct competition with them to catch anything being thrown our way. In the end I managed to catch quite a few souvenirs to remember my day by.

The sound of helicopters signaled the approaching race, followed by race official cars and motorbikes attempting to manage the crowd in order to make space in the road for the cyclist to pass. However, despite their efforts, and that of two policemen they couldn’t do much to control the enthusiastic 500-strong crowd from getting up close to the race.

When the riders finally zoomed past, I was taken aback by their size, looking much younger than expected. Jonas and Tadej, the top riders of the year, looked about 15 years old. Furthermore, being within touching distance to the race was a very surreal experience.

Cheering on the other riders as they conquered the hill brought joy and camaraderie to the crowd, with French stars Pinot and Alaphilippe receiving the loudest cheers.

After the race had passed, I cycled up to the finish area, where preparations were already underway to dismantle the course. The thrilling day concluded with a somewhat nerve-wracking descent alongside fellow cyclists, many of whom were quite drunk by this point.

None of us in the crowd had phone signal, likely due to the remote hillside location, this meant I didn’t know who’d even won till I’d set up camp that evening. Watching the race back I was trying to spot myself on the cameras and I think you can just about see the back of my head!

It was an unforgettable day, and a great conclusion to my time in France. It’s been a great and rather easy country to cycle through and I’d love to return to follow the race through the Alps one day.

Luxembourg, Germany and Eastern France

Over three days, I crossed four different countries, and what surprised me the most was the lack of fanfare at each border. There were no signs welcoming me to the new country on most occasions.

In just one day, I cycled across Luxembourg, stopping for lunch in the city centre park. The city’s architecture blended old and modern, with picturesque viaducts spanning the valley. The rest of the country was characterised by rolling hills and farmland, not unlike what I had seen in France and Belgium.

The following day took me into Germany, where I followed the Saar River for 85km before joining a canal path for another 50km. It was a monotonous stretch, with the industrial surroundings necessitating several breaks for food to pass the time.

Then, I arrived in Strasbourg, which turned out to be my favourite destination so far. Upon reaching the city during rush hour, I encountered chaos on the bike paths with commuters scurrying about. After a moment of rest in a park to catch up on some admin, I took a leisurely bike ride around the vibrant city. Strasbourg’s stunning cathedral and canal running through its heart gave it a unique charm.

Friday brought my first day of rain on this journey. The downpour persisted throughout the morning, forcing me to take shelter under a bridge to escape it. Luckily, my bags proved to be waterproof something I hadn’t checked before setting off for the trip, and as the afternoon cleared, I entered the picturesque Alsace region, cycling through many beautiful vineyards. I had a quick look round Colmar that evening and camped in some woods on the outskirts of the City, ready to take on the hills in the morning.

Northern France and Belgium

After arriving in Calais, I, along with two other cycle tourists, received a car escort out of the port, allowing us to bypass the queues and begin our journey smoothly. I joined EuroVelo 5, a long-distance cycling route from Canterbury to Italy, where I enjoyed the ease of riding along the well-maintained paved canal paths.

While the EuroVelo 5 continued towards Brussels, I opted to head south towards Douai. There, I found accommodation with Claire, who offered a much-needed shower and a quick tour of the City.

After she shared her food with me, we met up with some of her friends and celebrated Bastille Day for which the city put on a firework display.

The following morning, we visited a bustling French market and I stocked up on delicious cheeses to fuel me through the day.

After camping in a forrest on the Belgium border for a night, I crossed into Belgium traveling through some small Belgian villages, making sure to indulge in their famous waffles for sustenance.

Soon, I found myself back in France in the scenic Ardennes Regional Park, where a pleasant bike trail offered stunning views of the river Meuse and its valley.

Camping has been relatively straightforward, with most nights spent in peaceful forested areas away from the road. As for food, I relied on simple provisions, snacking on baguettes with Nutella during the day and having tinned protein (generally lentils or Beans), tinned veg, and some carbs for dinner.

Riding along the bike trails has been far more enjoyable so far than the roads so, I made my way back to Belgium to rejoin the EuroVelo 5 route, which will guide me through more new countries of Luxembourg and Germany.

UK

Before setting off, I viewed the Windsor to Dover leg of my journey as a mere commute. The plan was to reach Dover as quickly as possible, eager to embark on the proper adventure awaiting me in mainland Europe.

As I began my ride, I couldn’t shake the feeling of being unprepared. It was my first time riding with a fully loaded bike, carrying three full water bottles and as much food as I could cram into the pannier bags. The bike weighed a hefty 40 kilograms, and after conquering the first hill of the day, I realised I needed to shed some weight before tackling the daunting Alps.

This new chapter in my life was commencing just as the previous one was concluding. I pulled over to the side of the road to check my university finals exam results, which had been released that morning. Thankfully, I was pleased with all of my results, allowing me to end my university chapter with a sense of accomplishment.

The route I had chosen to Dover primarily followed the scenic North Downs Way. This off-road cycle route promised to showcase the stunning beauty of the Surrey Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and the Kent Downs Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. However, after enduring an excessive amount of single tracks and steep hills for about 90 kilometers, all I yearned for was the smoothness of tarmac. I decided to swap the off-road trails for a more direct route to Dover, promising myself that I would return one day with a mountain bike to conquer those missed scenic trails.

I eventually found a secluded woods to spend the night, having covered approximately 140 kilometers on my first day. It was more than I had initially planned, but I wanted to push myself to accomplish a substantial distance, ensuring I would catch the ferry the next afternoon.

The following morning, I needed to replenish my water supply and stock up on snacks for the day. I stumbled upon a post office that conveniently doubled as a corner shop and café. Explaining to the shop assistant that I was embarking on a journey to Australia after just one day of cycling made me feel somewhat self-conscious.

Arriving in Dover ahead of schedule, I managed to secure an earlier ferry than the one I had booked. As the ferry departed, I glanced back at the iconic white cliffs of Dover, uncertain of when I would return to the UK.