My next destination was the northern border of Thailand, where I spotted a promising road on the map within the Doi Pha Hom Pok national park, winding through the mountains and leading up to the second highest peak in Thailand, Doi Lang. A potential obstacle, however, was this road was right on the Myanmar border, so I was unsure if I’d be able to ride along it. Despite this uncertainty, I decided to just go for it and find out when I arrived at the checkpoint for the entrance to the national park. But first, I spent a day cycling along the flat to make it to the national park.
The arduous ascent to this checkpoint was the toughest climb in Thailand so far. Wrestling with a super steep road reaching up to 35%, compounded by the sweltering 40-degree heat, I found myself struggling and having push my bike up several sections. When I reached the checkpoint, I was denied passage by the stern army personnel, seemingly almost offended that I’d ask to pass. I still managed to get some great views from where I made it to and descended down via an alternate route.
That night I sought shelter at a temple, where a kind-hearted monk directed me to a place to stay and generously provided a substantial bag of provisions.
Among the offerings were several packets of instant noodles, far better than the Russian ones I had encountered in Central Asia, likely owing to the generous amount of MSG in them. There was also a sizable box of Euro Cake, a processed confection comprising sponge cake with a layer of jam inside. I’d been craving good cake since leaving Europe however, these treats failed to hit the mark.
The following day, I set my course for Chiang Rai along a splendid road tracing the course of the Kok River. This journey was the first time I left the tarmac in Thailand and featured a challenging river crossing. Fortunately, the current was not too fierce, but with the high river level I had to carry my bike on my shoulder to prevent my bags from getting wet.
Upon arrival in Chiang Rai, I checked into a splendid hostel reminiscent of a Victorian seaside hotel, complete with a complimentary breakfast that I definitely made the most of. I promptly sought out a bike shop to fix an issue with my front gears, which had been non-functional for the past few days. The bike shop, more of a bike supermarket, proved to be a treasure trove of parts, and I got them to also replaced my chain and rear cassette which were both worn out. I always have some trepidation at the bike shops as I’ll never be coming back, so there isn’t anything I can do if they perform a bad repair. So it was reassuring when a £10,000 bike gets brought in as it shows the bike shop must be trustworthy.
My stay in Chiang Rai extended for two nights, affording me the chance to explore the city, meander through the bustling night market, and attend to some admin, including securing my visa for Laos, the first visa I’ve needed so far.
Embarking on a journey northward, I ascended a mountain to savor a breathtaking view of Myanmar before descending and making my way to the Golden Triangle and catching my first sight of the Mekong river.
After receiving my visa approval letter by email, I needed to find somewhere to print it off. After enquiring at a guest house they sent me to a printing shop right by the border, a business clearly set up for this task. This provided a good way to disposal of my remaining Thai coins and I then cycled towards the border.
Will Scam 