Greece

When I looked at the map, I realized that finding a suitable camping spot for my first night in Greece would be a challenge. The landscape seemed to be primarily farmland, and my attempt to camp by an abandoned building was thwarted by a group of barking sheepdogs. I hurriedly left the scene to avoid the shepherd’s intervention.

About an hour later, I encountered Lazarus, who recognised my predicament and suggested I camp in the churchyard. Although initially hesitant, he assured me it was safe and that the walled garden would shield me from wild dogs, though perhaps not from the bears which had been spotted in the village that week!

The following day, I embarked on an extensive cycle toward Thessaloniki. Covering 140km, my goal was simply to reach the coast, as the monotony of cycling through farmland had started to take its toll.

Thessaloniki proved to be a busy touristy city with a large harbour but nowhere really to swim. That evening, I peddled into the nearby hills to set up camp and enjoyed a view overlooking the city.

On the third day, I joined a road that would essentially lead me to Turkey. The towns along the way boasted bustling beaches with rows of umbrellas and vendors selling shade, which made the cycling somewhat mundane. Nonetheless, the main road facilitated efficient progress. That night, I ventured to a beach for dinner and a swim, hoping to camp there if it was quiet enough. There were a few tents set up already on the beach and when enquiring with one of the campers if I could sleep there for free he said it should be fine.

The following day’s cycling proved strenuous. Battling a headwind from the start, I knew it would only intensify as the day progressed. Since my route headed east all day, the relentless wind gave me no respite, and certain stretches became particularly grueling, especially when the road became exposed running alongside a lake.

That evening posed another camping challenge with little wilderness on route. I ended up finding refuge in some bushes behind a local park, enduring the persistent barking of dogs – a sound I had grown accustomed to. Throughout Greece I’ve had many dogs chasing me and barking relentlessly at me as I’ve cycled past them.

Forming an opinion about Greece has proven tricky. While I’ve cherished moments on picturesque sandy beaches, there have also been instances where the monotonous stretches of road, lasting up to 50 km, have tempted me to try and hitchhike. I’ve noticed that Greece tends to be pricier than the preceding countries, including Croatia. I’m eagerly anticipating the change as I transition into Turkey, and I’ve also made the decision to extend my journey by an additional 2,000 km. I’ll be continuing through Istanbul and heading towards Tbilisi, Georgia, before finally flying to Aktau, Kazakhstan.