Switzerland

Before embarking on this trip, my encounters with Switzerland had been brief. I’d visited twice before: once landing at Geneva airport before heading straight for the French border and also driving there last year but only stay for 4 hours before heading home!

Switzerland’s strict laws on wild camping made me a bit more paranoid than usual, knowing that a fine of 1000CHF (£900) could be levied if caught. However unlikely this is to actually be enforced, it was always on the back of my mind. Furthermore, with limited flat land due to farms and urban areas, finding suitable camping spots became more challenging than in France.

My first day in Switzerland saw me cycling a daunting 190 kilometers, more than planned, to reach Zurich. Thankfully, Christoph, an experienced bikepacker, offered me a place to stay, and together, we mapped out my route through Switzerland and over the Alps.

On the second day, I tried to avoid the hills, instead following the picturesque shores of Lake Zurich and Walesee.

It was delightful cycling on fantastic cycle paths, but I had to race against an approaching storm, eventually seeking refuge under a bridge to cook dinner whilst it passed.

Camping near a serene river, I decided to set off early the next morning to reduce the risk of getting found camping. My journey led me up into the majestic Alps, starting with a grueling climb to the ski town of Davos. The ascent through the forest proved tough but rewarding.

The Flüelapass, another challenging climb at 2383 meters, greeted me with inclement weather, making the crossing over the top and the slippery descent on the other side a nerve-wracking cold and wet experience.

Heading towards the Italian border, the weather was constantly changing between each valley I entered and I never knew what it would be like over the next climb. My method of dealing with this was to just keep cycling really and then at least I shouldn’t be getting cold. I then conquered the Bernina Pass and Forcola di Livigno, both rewarding me with breathtaking Alpine views and some brilliant descents.

As a storm approached, I found myself seeking shelter under another bridge, this time in the town of Livigno. Known for being an isolated duty-free zone, it offered a unique shopping experience for travelers passing through to stock up on alcohol, petrol and chocolate. Once the storm passed, I camped out in a forrest next to a stunning lake at 1800m elevation for the night.

Switzerland had been a captivating country, unlike anything I had experienced in the UK. Its stunning landscapes and excellent cycle paths made it a true delight to explore. I’d love to return to the Alps again one day to complete more of the iconic climbs but maybe with a lighter bike next time!